At London Fashion Week, Emilia Wickstead, the New Zealand-born designer, took a bold step back in time, resurrecting the pillbox hat with a collection steeped in the eerie allure of Alfred Hitchcock's 1963 masterpiece, The Birds. The show, held at the iconic Saatchi Gallery, was a masterclass in blending cinematic drama with sartorial finesse.
Wickstead's autumn/winter collection paid homage to the visionary costume designer Edith Head, whose work on The Birds and other Hollywood classics earned her a string of Oscars. The show opened with the film's haunting staccato strings, setting the stage for models who strode with the precision of Hitchcock's calculated avian antagonists.
The collection was a love letter to the 1960s, with utilitarian cuts, mod-style skirts, and shift dresses that whispered of a bygone era. Wickstead's designs, adored by the Princess of Wales, effortlessly married tradition with contemporary flair, proving that nostalgia can be cutting-edge.
Evening wear exuded old-Hollywood glamour, with floor-length shawls, scooped necklines, and empire lines that evoked the elegance of Tippi Hedren's character in The Birds. Yet, Wickstead juxtaposed this sophistication with unexpected pairings: pillbox hats perched atop models clad in cargo boots, and a neutral palette of taupe, pale pinks, and mint that felt both timeless and fresh.
Color blocking, a hallmark of the 1960s, was prominent, while beauty looks leaned into the 'trad wife' aesthetic—neat beehives, polished skin, and natural eye makeup that felt both nostalgic and strikingly modern.
Wickstead's collection was more than a fashion statement; it was a meditation on the power of film costumes to embody resilience and vulnerability. Reflecting on Edith Head's mastery, Wickstead celebrated the stories of remarkable women, both on and off the screen. "I always dive really deep into the inspiration," she told British Vogue. "When you become obsessed, that's when you get the best out of the details."
In Wickstead's hands, the pillbox hat was no mere accessory—it was a symbol of strength, a nod to the past, and a harbinger of trends to come.
